An Interview With ‘Julia’ Costume Designer John Dunn

This piece was written during the 2023 SAG-AFTRA strike. Without the labor of actors currently on strike, the series being covered here wouldn’t exist.

In season one of Julia we got to see “the French chef,” Julia Child, work out the kinks of what would become her celebrated TV show. When season two begins Julia’s in France, picking out recipes for her second cookbook with co-writer, Simone “Simca” Beck. For more on what it was like to dress Sarah Lancashire and the rest of the cast this season, check out this interview with costume designer John Dunn:

Rachel Bellwoar: While a lot of season one took place at the TV studio, Julia (Sarah Lancashire) and Paul (David Hyde Pierce) spend the first three episodes of season two in France. Did you enjoy getting to dress the characters for a new setting, and were travel constraints (like what they could carry in a suitcase) considered?

John Dunn: Since we were visiting both Paris and the South of France in the first few episodes we were able to explore different moods and shades of Julia and Paul’s clothing choices. Both dressier (Paris) and more casual (southern France); more romantic and carefree. And Julia at her most chic but also bolder in color and style.

Bellwoar: In the same way that Simca (Isabella Rossellini) and Julia disagree about recipes, they often differ when it comes to fashion (for example, Julia will be in a half apron while Simca will be wearing a full one). How much did you want their clothes to be a reflection of their combative relationship?

Dunn: Julia, whilst always a proper dresser, was raised in Southern California and always exhibited a more modern adventurist sensibility than her co-author Simca who came from a more conservative French upper crust milieu. Simca is perhaps a bit more traditional, even dowdy (not easy for Isabella!) and Julia is more about discovering new worlds and their styles reflect that.

Bellwoar: Alice (Brittany Bradford) and Judith (Fiona Glascott) both work in male-dominated spaces. Judith really existed, though, whereas Alice was created for the show. Overall, would you say you prefer the freedom of coming up with a character’s style from scratch or is there more satisfaction in embodying a real person?

Dunn: Whenever I dress an actor as a real historical person I never ever give them carbon-copy reproduction clothing of the original person. I strive to capture the essence of the original but give the actor the space to breathe life into the character. Don’t want them to feel like a wax museum copy. So both real and fictitious characters are both new and satisfying to me.

Bellwoar: Which environment was more fun to work on, in terms of designing professional attire: WGBH or Knopf?

Dunn: WGBH is always a blast because it involves a lot of character variety but what could be more fun than Knopf’s 1964 chic?

Bellwoar: Rachel Bloom joins the cast this season as Elaine Levitch, a director who — like Alice — was created for the series. Were you able to take inspiration for her wardrobe from any female directors working at the time?

Dunn: To be honest there was little real life research available for female TV directors in the early ’60s; we looked to other professions where women were making inroads as our guide.

Bellwoar: We also get to meet Paul’s twin brother, Charles, this season. Given that David Hyde Pierce plays both roles, was there more pressure to make sure their outfits were distinctive?

Dunn: We approached it two ways: we gave each brother a specific color palette and also created a body suit for David as Charles to build him up a bit. We wanted it to all be subtle especially so they could be pretty identical.

Bellwoar: Avis’ grieving was still raw in season one, but in season two we see her step into the world of dating again. In what ways did that influence Bebe Neuwirth’s wardrobe this season?

Dunn: After her dramatic appearance in the red gown at the gala towards the end of season 1, we decided it was time for her to explore some deep rich colors and lighter moments so we peppered those through season 2.

Bellwoar: Throughout the series you really get to see the characters’ preferences for certain accessories, like Julia and her necklaces and Paul and his ascots. What was it like getting to establish those personal signatures?

Dunn: Many of these personal signatures were direct homage to the people the characters are based on. But we strove to put fresh spins on each of them.

Bellwoar: Were there any fashion trends from the ’60s, like certain patterns or necklines, that you were able to touch on this season that hadn’t come up yet last season?

Dunn: Because of Julia’s forward, adventure-some nature, I definitely was able to lean into the mid-60s explosion of pop-art patterns and vivid hues.  Ever the bold and confident woman, her love of color and pattern gave us free reign to run wild. I loved designing her wardrobe in Season 2!

Bellwoar: Thanks for agreeing to this interview, John!

Julia Season 2 begins November 16th on Max.